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Bespoke-tailoring in Russia. What is it and who sews

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2018-11-05

Magazine about men’s fashion The RAKE said about bespoke or modern interpretation of the concept of “individual tailoring”. Who in Russia sews clothes premium?

What is bespoke

It is still unusual to the Russian ear the word bespoke is closest in meaning to the concept of “custom-tailored” when the master sews the product based on personal standards of each client. In the eighties of the indposhiv was extremely popular. People wanted to dress, and domestic light industry could not offer anything worthwhile.

Studio indposhiv was really a lot. For every 6,500 people had one Atelier (excluding private tailors, who worked illegally at home).

The position of the mirror has changed in the ‘ 90s, when they finally dropped the “iron curtain”. With the collapse of the Soviet Union into the country a flood of consumer goods from abroad and the relevance of the Studio completely. The second wave of the revival of indposhiva started closer to two thousand. It became clear that the standards of clothing, especially mens, differing from those of the average European, and the Studio gradually began to regain lost positions.

Of course, the greatest development of the Atelier received in Metropolitan areas. About twenty years ago a small company started to invite artists from Italy, France, the UK and to learn from them. Then came the concept of bespoke, made-to-measure, local craftsmen have begun to take the measurements and make patterns, and customers stopped to be afraid of unusually high prices.

The situation finally changed in just 3-4 years ago, when the economic crisis, sanctions and the policy of import substitution gave rise to the development of local production. Now suit is made in Moscow and not inferior in quality Italian, is cheaper by 30%.

Who are they, premium Russian studios?

“Workshop of classical suit”

One of the most striking, iconic representatives of the new generation of domestic Atelier “Workshop of classical suit” or Mastersuit. Boutique-Atelier in its modern form — with a team of over a hundred people — has evolved from a small family business, founded by enthusiast by Elena Velichkina. Today the company, which is considered one of the top five in the world in its segment, run by the sons of Elena Antonio and Ramon Palacios-Fernandez.

“Workshop” sews like bespoke and made-to-measure. In the first case, 100% of products produced in Russia, here are measurements and made patterns. The second process of assembling the suit trust the masters in Italy. Bespoke — more expensive method is needed when the client is too non-standard shape and tailoring require constant fitting and a more thorough approach.

The brothers Palacios fernández dream to move to Russia and direction made-to-measure. Then they will be able to realize his ambitious goal when 100% of products will show off the tag “Made in Russia”.

“We create new images and models of clothes, — says Antonio. — I must say, our customers have changed, they have become much more relaxed than it was 10-15 years ago, choose more vivid colors. I can say this: when we started, we just sewed the costume. Now we go beyond the standard set of fabrics, buttons, directories, we create the image that is selected for ready harmonious way.”

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Fashion

What’s It Like to Wear A 3D-Printed Sneaker?

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Adidas’ Alphaedge 4D sneaker takes footwear to the future. (Photo: Adidas / Twitter)

What does a shoe with a sole 3D-printed from a base of light and oxygen feel like on your feet? The short answer: a little heavier than you might expect, but pretty good. The long answer is way more interesting though, I promise.

One of the great sneaker innovations of the last decade was adidas’ innovations in 3D printing. Using a process called Carbon Digital Light Synthesis, they pioneered the adidas 4D line, a series of shoes with soles printed using a process primarily based on light and oxygen particles to create pliable, sturdy shoe soles that are designed to best aid in human performance.

The tech first launched in April of 2017 in tight, limited quantities that restricted accessibility. Since then though, it’s expanded, adorning dozens of adidas sneakers and becoming far more accessible to the public.

Traditional shoe soles of just about any kind are created with injection molding. Carbon Digital Light Synthesis does away with the process entirely, instead opting for an elaborate building process that went through 50 different designs before being settled on – the current process allowing for the sole’s performance to be tested early on in the design phase, which eliminates the need for prototypes.

When speaking with sneaker publication High Snobiety, adidas explained that, “It is a photochemical process. It works by projecting light through an oxygen-permeable window into a reservoir of UV-curable resin.

As a sequence of UV images are projected, the part solidifies and the build platform rises. Oxygen inhibits the photochemical reaction so that there is always a thin, liquid interface of uncured resin between the window and the printing part.” What sets this tech apart from traditional 3D printing is that UV-curable resin – traditional 3D printing uses plastics, which are stiffer and more difficult to mold.

So what’s the end result? What’s it like wearing a shoe that has been 3D-printed using light and oxygen?  Recently I got the chance to try out the adidas Alphaedge 4D and, well, it’s like I said: a little heavier than you might expect. Given that adidas’ most popular sneaker innovation of the last decade has been Boost foam, you’d expect a comparable lightness, right?

Boost is famous for being ultra lightweight and responsive. Wearing it makes you realize just how heavy every other shoe you’ve ever worn is. It’s cushy and pliable, making for one of the most comfortable shoes on the market today. Given this, wouldn’t a heavier shoe feel like something of a downgrade?

Not necessarily. Yes, these 4D soles have a bit more heft to them than something like an Ultra Boost. But the weight serves a purpose, the first being durability. It might not feel like running on a pillow the way that Ultra Boosts do when you first put them on, but the support is unreal.

The printed webbing absorbs and redistributes shock and movement as your foot strides, seeming to respond to individual muscles and each part of your foot accordingly. It also, in the world of professional sports, allows for maximum customizability. The structure of the webbing can easily be altered in the design process (again, without the need for creating prototypes) to suit the needs of the athlete in question.

It doesn’t hurt that the shoe’s upper is comprised of an ultra-lightweight knitted material similar to that of the Ultra Boost or the Nike Epic React Flyknit. The obvious benefit is that it doesn’t add any unnecessary weight to the shoe, though it’s perhaps more important to note that knit uppers cradle your foot far better than most materials. It locks your foot down into the sole and conforms to the shape and contour in order to maximize the shoe’s performance as well as that of your body.

I’m not going to lie – it takes a little while to get used to. There’s a peculiar sensation to the 4D soles that isn’t quite like anything I’ve ever felt in a shoe before. It’s like walking on a bed of super-light springs. Once you’ve gotten used to the peculiar sensation and the strange weightiness of it though, you won’t want to take it off. This tech marks such a leap forward into the future of sneakers that it honestly makes sense that you might not initially be prepared for the sensation of wearing them. How can you be prepared for lacing the future onto your feet?

You can pick a pair of adidas’s 4D sneakers for yourself over at their website.

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Fashion

You Can Unlock Exclusive Sneakers By Playing NBA 2K20, Thanks To Nike

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To paraphrase Justin Timberlake as Sean Parker in the 2010 film The Social Network, unlocking new skins and players in a video game is not cool. You know what’s cool? Unlocking real sneakers in a video game. Nothing like having your hard in-game work pay off with a dope out-game prize. Pretty soon you’ll be able to do just that, thanks to a unique first-of-its-kind partnership between EA 2K and Nike.

The sneaker titan’s signature app SNKRS is partnering with NBA 2K20 in a cool new initiative that will allow for players to unlock exclusive (real, not digital) sneakers through gameplay in the MyPLAYER Nation mode. The initiative seeks to function through community as it capitalizes on the intersect between sneaker culture, gaming culture, and basketball fans.

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The gameplay that allows for players to unlock these sneaker drops will function in a community setting. 2K20 players can participate by selecting their favorite team and playing through the MyPLAYER Nation mode. The schedule in MyPLAYER Nation will mimic that of the regular NBA season, putting fans up against other members of the community the nights that their selected teams hit the court in real life. When specific milestones are hit, players will unlock the ability to purchase these special Gamer Edition (GE) sneakers on the Nike SNKRS app.

In order to participate, players will need to link their Nike and 2K accounts as well as download the SNKRS app. When a GE is unlocked, players are also able to use the digital version in their game. Throughout the 2019-20 NBA season, 10 GEs will be made available through the game. Nine of these will be unlocked through players achieving certain in-game milestones, while the final shoe will be unlocked through a surprise SNKRS cam execution.

Gamer Exclusives can be earned through personal achievements during the NBA season. (Photo Credit: Nike)

The first shoe in the lineup has already been revealed, that being the Nike LeBron 17 Flood Purple colorway. It’s a plush sneaker in all-over Lakers Purple. The 2K logo and the game’s tagline, “WELCOME TO THE NEXT,” adorns the sneaker as well. In order to unlock the shoe, players need to get their MyPLAYER avatar to a 98 skill level – one above LeBron’s in-game rating of 97. After that, win your next match-up and the shoe is unlocked.

All things considered, this is a partnership long overdue. The intersect between the sneaker and gaming community runs deep (streaming star Ninja just launched a signature deal with adidas, while Nike began sponsoring Overwatch League teams in 2018). Throw in basketball, perhaps the single most integral facet of the sneaker community, and you’ve got a perfect collaboration. We can’t wait to see the other dope signature 2K sneakers that will be made available through the game over the next several months.

MyPLAYER Nation mode unlocks on Oct. 22, coinciding with the opening night of the NBA season. The LeBron 17 Flood Purple is available beginning Oct. 29 and will only be available in the U.S., as will all other GEs (though international players will be able to pick up the digital versions). To stay up to date with any and all releases, download the SNKRS app.

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Fashion

Clothes made of exotic leather: how to understand and what to wear

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2018-10-22

Shoes, clothing and accessories from exotic skins — in all times was a sign of status. In Gucci, Prada, Louis Vuitton and other top fashion houses and then there are things from crocodile skin, Python, Stingray or sea snakes.

Do not have to wait for the new season — a welcome bag, belt or shoes can make to order. Then you can be sure the thing will last long and will go perfectly with the image.

In Moscow for such work is the Atelier “Workshop of Classical Suit“. Here will help to find quality material, will develop a total-bow and tell you how and what to combine it with a bright accent.

Popular types of exotic skins
There are some of the most popular types of leather used by the fashion designers, skin, sea snake, Stingray, Python and crocodile.

Skin, sea snake and Python are appreciated for flexibility, uniqueness — two of the same drawings do not meet — and the softness. Python skin is even more durable — it will last 10-15 years, while the leather-sea snake — 5-7 years with careful care.

The most durable material — Stingray leather and crocodile. In Japan since the days of the middle ages used the Stingray leather for leather armor, and winding the handle of the katana. She is not afraid of heat and humidity and it is almost impossible to break. The product made of Stingray leather will last about 30 years.

But the crocodile leather still durable. Bag, case or strap will last more than 50 years in perfect condition.

How to wear
Accessory or item of clothing, shoes made from exotic leather is a bright accent that is harmonious with “quiet” things from the basic wardrobe.

Best thing from exotic leather highlights the classic look. Of course, you can skillfully combine the ripped jeans and bag from the crocodile. But as a luxury item, this style requires dignity and moderation. And the best of the classics nothing can emphasize these qualities.

About The “Workshop”
“Workshop of Classical Suit” — elite Studio-boutique, where fashion returns to the classics. For more than 20 years tailors and designers Studio help their clients to create an individual style, find your harmonious image and highlight personal qualities.

Feel the difference and see the benefits of a classic suit from the “Workshop” already did many famous people of Russia and the world: Ksenia Sobchak, Timati, Basta, Sergey Shnurov, Kostya dzu, Eric Roberts, Cary-Hiroyuki Tagawa.

Today “Workshop” is among the five best Studio in the world. The company cooperates with leading manufacturers of fabrics and yarns. Each year, the Studio employees attending the European fashion shows and fashion weeks, gain experience and show their achievements.

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